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99 thoughts on “How-To Rebuild Top End Chevy 350 Small Block Engine Motorz #67

  1. If they were using stock style head bolt you are correct, but it looks like they are using aftermarket bolts "possibly ARP" which are not ' torque to yeild' like the stock bolts. My concern is that they didn't use a sealer style lubricant which ARP and others make because those head bolts go to water. It is highly possible that coolant will now get into the engine.

  2. old schooler prefers using steel head gasket sprayed with silver paint just before install. I've found some of those rocker studs thread through into intake port affecting flow. Run studs down and use finger or a light to see if stud is sticking into port. Grind it flush. I've seen Mexican blocks where a big bladed screwdriver was used to punch a slot for oil drains to timing case. Block shown has drains bored or could be an old Michigan smog block. I liked watching these videos.

  3. Hi, I rebuilt LT1 350 to 383 keeping the clearances on higher range side.
    I wanted to use 20-50 oil as it is easily available here opposed to what OEM is calling for (5-30, 10-30). I spun bearings with 5W-30.. so I'm hesitant with low viscosities oils
    Should 20-50 be fine? or maybe 60 race oil?

  4. Mr Chris Duke, im having a bad knock on top of a chevy express 1500 (Savanna) i try the engine cleaner ,new oil and nothing.After wtching your video i got more acarier of doing the job my self , i thought i could change the lifters on the drivers side , just removing the intake and i saw on your video , that i need to remove the heads. im not a mechanic and the shop wants 1100 $ i cant paid that . Can you help with advice on how to do the work.(need to change lifters). Thanks

  5. It is false that dipping bolts in oil that are TTY style gives you more accurate torque. It requires a small dab of oil. All of the oil off that bolt that the guy dipped in, went to the bottom of the threads where there is no way of it draining out, when you torque it, the oil in the bottom is compressed and will effect the torque.

  6. After watching all the other car shows, I thought you always just tossed out the 350 and picked up a free crate 502 from Chevy.

  7. In reply to (thehossman1) comment @ me. Actually, This is a late model SBC they are working on, and yes they did have torque to yield bolts. The LT1 also used torque to yield bolts, and both engines preceded the LS engines.

  8. Tlcbear2 is right always put thread sealer on the head bolts. And whats with the roller cam shouldnt there be a thrust plate or cam button so it doesnt walk?

  9. so im workin on an 87 silverado with a 1st gen 350, all i know is it was run without oil, now its knocking, i got a couple lifters that were trouble gettin out, a couple that wont budge, so far i understand that i should replace lifters and cam, but is it really that easy to do a cam?…i though i needed a cam card and special tools and what not?….any tips or knowledge appreciated.

  10. If you want to make your life easier, adjust the valve lash before installing the intake manifold. Its way easier. As you spin it to top dead you can actually watch the pushrod compress the lifter while you tighten the rockers. (if it's not a solid lifter engine that is).

  11. Curious why he didn't go with a set of roller rockers too since they put roller cam in and Dart heads? Spend the extra on the rockers too. Just my opinion I guess.

  12. all of these chevy pushrod motors are extremely easy to work on. They are pretty much lego block motors. Lots of shit is interchangeable between them and they are easy as hell to service. parts are also EVERYWHERE.

     OHC engines require lot more skill to work on especially when doing the timing chain or belt + valve adjustment since there is a lot more valves on a DOHC engine.  

  13. I found a 1973 dodge charger on craigslist with the 360 engine still intact, I'm thinking about buying it. This will be my first car restoration and I'm getting very excited watching all these videos.

  14. I liked the information regarding the parts information. 
    Rather than point out negative feedback, I only have one question, why did you zoom through the valve, lifter and rod installation and specs. Is there a website where you can point me in the right direction?

  15. I have a completely stock 350 and another 305 can I put the 305 heads on the 350 without Channing's cams And if I can would it give me any extra horse or would it just be dumb? Sorry if the question sounds stupid.

  16. I have watched every episode a dozen times or so while I work on my Chevy 350 and man do you leave out a bunch of stuff. After viewing a number of other ones, I'm sure glad I went someplace else to get info.

  17. the things in this total build have cost more than i am worth as a human being. im 16, with a 65 327 (i think? 2 bolt main, could be a 350). how on earth am i going to get all these tools

  18. Let's see my first start up, 350 chevy engine with zoomies ! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BfTw3ChsmHM

  19. are those tty head bolts? there is more than one tightening sequence. it should be in thirds starting around 25 ft/lbs. and it's easier to check prestart valve lash and push rods angle with the intake while turning the engine over. your supposed to set final lash with the engine warm and running. I always have a set of valve covers I cut for that purpose.

  20. Toss the crank sprocket in the oven @ 350 degrees for about 20 mins, and you can slide it on without hammering the sht out of it. Use thick gloves.

  21. You're supposed to use thread sealer on the head bolts when your using a factor chevy block not oil. If you don't you're going to have an oil pan full of coolant as well as a coolant leak on every head bolt.
    The only block I know of that doesn't require thread sealant is made by DART and that's because the head bolt holes are blind and aren't open to the water jacket.

  22. No thread sealant on the head bolts, no instructions on how to insert the lifters, i still have no idea how you got that tape out from underneath the intake and why wouldnt you go with roller rockers? besides all that you guys are making a big deal over how he put the cam in, like come on thats how you put a cam in. "Gently" pretty much just means dont snap that bitch in half when your putting it in the block.

  23. lol, im gonna say they left the engine in the upright position for the camera and videos purpose. But, to make it easier to put the heads on, rotate your engine stand to where your head can lay flat down. It will make it way easy, if you gotta do it by yourself. Also, to keep the head gasket from moving, it wont hurt to put JUST A LITTLE rtv in two of the corners to keep it stuck.

  24. To who ever reads this comment never use a universal socket joint to torque down a bolt. The reason being it doesn't give you a precise torque.

  25. Why did he pound on the low timing chain gear? That mess up your end play and f up your bearing. They have a tool that presses it on with no damage to your bottom end. And the last time I work on my 350 the intake torques down to 30 lbs.

  26. I mean, I know it's a 2 bolt main 350, but iron heads and head bolts instead of studs, come on man, you can fenagle some better sponsored stuff

  27. Fun fact: Some camshafts sold by Crower/Lunati and a few others are actually reboxed white box camshafts made by Elgin. Study the cam specs and you can purchase the same cam from Elgin at a little over half the price.

  28. great video. question im 17 so im stilling learning everything their is to know about engines. The crank sprocket gear, do you have to remove it if you swap the cam and put it bad to top dead center???

  29. Speaking of sieze up for not installing something properly does it mean the truck can break down stranding the driver.

  30. I always torque in 3 steps…….such as 70 ft. Lbs. on the head bolts would get a 40…..55…..then the final 70. When I lived in Indy . Steve Schmidt Racing engines did all of my engine machine work. Awesome race shop awesome engine work At the time in the late 90's SSRE was. Building A lot of engines for NHRA pro stock. Not sure if he still does. I remember when I took my block in for machine work and it was all clean with the inside and outside painted and the block machinist who did the machining asked if my engine was a raw casting and I said no…..I bead blasted it in my large blast cabinet. I remember the block machinist commenting……. WOW…..I have never seen a seasoned block come in that clean before…..LOL…..I would tape and plug any surfaces I didn't want blasted and go at it.Give a rinse in the parts washer using mineral spirits engine brush and blow out it all the holes then paint the insides of the block with Glyptol red engine enamel. It helps the enamel to adhere better then I would paint the exterior of the block with high heat engine enamel. No issues whatsoever the paint always adhered well and looked fresh and new. No peeling…. Whenever I would get my engines back from the machine shop they were pretty much already to go with assembly. All cleaning deburring painting taken care f ahead f time. I always got the non chemical,rinse after machine work just to remove machining debris. I always washed the block a couple times with the pressure washer and Tide powder soap and have the oil squirt can ready to prevent rusting the freshly machined surfaces after the block and passages are air compressed blown dry. Engine supplies from Goodson always helped in my engine rebuilding. I usually shot blasted the crank and rods. Any type of blasting takes a meticulous cleaning with every bore brushed, rinsed and then brushed and rinsed again. ARP racing studs for the crank and heads on any performance engine…..ALWAYS…..I often used Total Seal piston rings along with TRW moly rings….I had no issues……Get a degree wheel and degree in the cam….it is worth it….if you are an engine builder you know the scoop……if not…..get a good engine rebuild book and if you are mechanically inclined you can learn it. I built an engine testing stand and ran my engines before they were put in the vehicle. Helped with tuning and to check for any issues. To me engine building was a hobby….. I always enjoyed it. Sometimes the best option now a days is to just purchase a crate engine. Ready to go as far as the block machining and depending on a short or long block kit the hard meticulous precision machining work has already been done for you. ……Have Fun.

  31. I just found you on YouTube and it so happens I am getting ready to rebuild my C10 350 engine. Is there any way of getting the parts list you used in this series (everything you changed or install new). All I need are the parts list and the vendors names. Thank you so much for the videos, please keep it coming (I subscribed so I will be watching any/all things you post).

  32. Way too much oil on the head bolts. The oil will be pooled up in the bottom on the threaded hole in the block, which you will be fighting when you are torquing the bolts causing a false reading on your torque wrench. Instead, lay all the bolts out on a clean shop towel. Take a small oil can and run a small bead of oil down the center length of the bolt. Let the bolts sit for a few minutes so the oil will drain off and be absorbed into the towel. You will be left with a very light coating on the threads, which is exactly what you want. I've literally down this to 100's of head bolts.

  33. Man those gaskets you were using for the intake , i would have taken back. In exchange for (ms 98000 t)
    These are Fel-Pro stainless steel gaskets and cost about 60 bucks with the valve cover gaskets included well worth it and last over a hundred thousand with no guarantee. I know the ones you used are cheaper. But onlt last about 30,000 miles . i had to replace mine . thanks for the video dude an cute friend you have too. Lets DYNO it…..

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