Ijaw Dictionary Online

How Automobiles Work

Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com. Today we’re going to be looking at the charging
system on our 2005 Honda VTX1800. Basically, it’s made up of three different
parts that we need to test: first, the battery, then we need to take a look at the stator,
and then the regulator rectifier. So let me go grab a couple of tools, bring
this up a little bit higher so it’s easier to work on, and we’ll get started. Alright guys, let me tell you the tools that
we’re going to need a 5 and a 6 mm Allen, a decent ratchet, and most importantly we’re
going to need a good quality voltometer. Specifically what you’re going to need is
one that can do a diode test, so make sure it has that little symbol right there. Alright, let’s start by taking the seat off. It’s a couple of 6mm Allens that are hidden
up under the seat right above where the rear shock absorbers are. Next, we need to get that battery holder out
of the way. It’s just held in by three Phillips. Just two back here and then one that’s hidden
up under the wiring harness. Definitely be careful with the wiring harness
and I usually leave it plugged into the ECU because those pins will wear out if you keep
plugging and unplugging it. I don’t know about you but I don’t want to
replace a wiring harness. ECU flipped up, this just lifts out. Alright, let’s get a static reading on the
battery. It should be really close to 13 volts. Anywhere in between I’d say 12.5 up to 13
is usually indicative of a good battery and I’m sure that I actually do have a good battery
because we just replaced this one recently. So, 12.65 sitting static. So, that’s about what I expected. Alright, and to actually test the charging
system what we’re looking for is a number greater than that 12.6 volts but not exceeding
15.5. and you want to rev up the machine to roughly 4000 RPMs when you’re looking for
this measurement. So we’ll go ahead and fire her up and see
what we have. Alright, that read about 14.6 and that’s basically
exactly where you want it to be. If it was over 15.5, that means that it was
over-charging the battery and it would eventually cook it. If you did that and it just read the battery
voltage, well, that means there was still a problem and what we need to look at next
is the stator and the voltage regulator rectifier. Alright, let’s get this cover out of the way
right here. It’s just held in by a bunch of 5mm Allens. Next, just push back that rear cover. What we’re actually after is right here. It’s a tree-wire conductor and it’s got all
yellow wires. So that’s what’s heading down to the stator. Right there. Alright, to test our stator, what we’re going
to do is set our meter to ohms and what we’re looking for here from leg to leg is a reading
somewhere in between point-one and one ohms. So what we want to do is go in between each
one. Alright, point five. That’s what we’re looking for. Go here. Point five. And then in between these two. Point-four, point-five, somewhere in there. So what that is telling us is that the three
legs or the three windings in there are reading about what they should. The other thing you want to check for is to
make sure that nobody shorted to ground. So, go to your negative terminal on your battery
with one end and then we’ll just go to each leg. So this is open, open, open. Alright, we pretty much knew that this stator
was in good operating order and it is, and it measures as it should. Now if it were a problem, what would you see? Well, you would either see probably an open
or a direct short when you went from each one of these legs when you were measuring
to each one. That would signify that they probably heated
up and they’re actually making direct contact. Hence it wouldn’t be charging on all three
outputs. The other is that one of the legs might have
shorted out to ground, and that’s why we did the measurement from here to here, and if
that read anything other than an open circuit, than there would be a problem with the stator. But we knew this one was good, but I just
wanted to show you what to look for. Next we’re going to look at the regulator
rectifier. Alright, what does that actually do? Alright, its job is to take the AC voltage
which comes out of your stator and converts it into DC which is what the motorcycle needs
to charge the battery. Now how does it actually do that? Well hidden inside this heat sink are all
the electronic circuits. What we’re actually going to check is the
diodes that are inside of here. Well what does a diode do? well that lets current only flow in one direction
so in essence it’s only going to let it flow to the positive side of that AC side. So once it gets that it starts to level it
off with the capacitors which gives you your DC charge voltage. So we’re just going to check the diodes. Well how are we going to do that? We’re going to set up our meter to where it
is set to diode and we’re gonna actually forward bias them and when we do that we should read
about point-five volts. So take your positive lead and put it on the
negative of the battery. And what we’re going to do is go to each one
of these after I’ve unplugged it coming from the stator, and each one of those wires–
yep, and it should read around point-five volts. That’s what you’re looking for each one. Here’s .93
Nine-five. Point nine-two. So that’s telling me that the diodes are good
inside of the one on the motorcycle. Alright, now that we know that out diodes
are in good shape, the only other thing you want to check is basically the wiring from
this connector right here. What we’re going to be looking for is battery
voltage as well as the ground. Alright, your battery voltage needs to be
on both of these red wires and then we need to show ground on both of these green. So, let’s check voltage first. Alright, going to our negative. So there’s our battery voltage
on both of the reds. And we’ll flip over to ohms. It should be very close to point one, to,
point three. Close enough. Point three. So all that wiring checks out. Alright guys, that pretty much wraps it up. Only thing I have left to do is just get this
cover back on and the seat remounted. Other than that she’s ready to go. Well listen, if you need any of the parts
that you found to be bad, come find us on partzilla.com and we can get you taken care
of. If you have any questions or comments, leave
them in the section below and I’ll do my best to answer them. and until next time we just want to say thanks
for watching.

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