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Chuck’s Garage is back for part 2 of our LS
engine swap! Today we’ll take the factory intake off and
replace it with a high performance intake and throttle body. Hi I’m Chuck Hanson! Welcome to another episode Chuck’s Garage
and our LS engine swap into this classic Chevelle chassis. Now if you caught the last episode you might
remember that we snagged an 03′ Tahoe 5.3 engine out of a wrecked Tahoe and we mated
it with a 3L60E transmission that a buddy of mine rebuilt and we’ve installed it all
in place using a stock cross member. But we used motor mount adapter plates from
Hooker and we used an oil pan that came from the folks at Holley. Now we had plenty of oil pan clearance here,
at least that’s what I thought, until I started getting emails from some of you guys. Now some of the emails concern themselves
with the clearance issues from the steering linkage up to the oil pan here, let me show
you what we’re talking about. Now as you can see when this thing goes lock
to lock, it makes contact here with the steering linkage and the oil pan with that grease circ
there. Now even with the grease circ out you still
make contact and believe it or not, it’s even worse on the other side. Yeah well this interference problem only seems
to make itself known on GMA body cars, the ones with the front steering linkage, and
64 to 72 A bodies is what I’m talking about. That’d be the Chevelle’s, Tempest, Skylark’s,
you know that kind of a car, and believe it or not Holley has already been made aware
of that problem and their working on a modified oil pan already. In fact perhaps by the time you see this video,
the parts will already be in the pipeline. So, well today, what we got planed is we’re
gonna go ahead and swap out this intake her, told you about that last time and we’re gonna
plump our fuel system, get all that stuff ready to go, and I don’t know what else we
can say, it’s time to get our hands dirty. Now that stock intake really isn’t too bad
a piece, it’s a composite so it’s light weight and it works pretty well through a fairly
broad RPM range, but it’s black and it’s ugly. So what we’re gonna do is replace it with
some cool pieces from Holley here. What we’ve got here is a mid-ram intake, and
this thing is configured for a single throttle body, we’re gonna hang a 90 millimeter throttle
body on there. But since we also have planned some upgrades
for the engine later on, perhaps a cam shaft swap, a head swap and that sort of thing,
that’s going to boost our horsepower ratings so we wanted an intake that would lend itself
to those modifications as well. Now this is a really cool intake, let me show
you some of it’s really cool features. Alright now this is the top that we’re going
to be using. You can see where it’s got the single throttle
body mounting here, but this intake is also for LS1’s LS2’s and LS6’s with the cathedral
port heads on it. Now any thing else than that your probably
going to have to go hunt another intake, but anyway, that’s what the top looks like. Now this plate here comes right off. Check that out. Now what you’ve got here is an intake that
is machined and set up for a pair of 4150 throttle bodies. You can tell this is for injection because
it’s got these two stands here for the fuel rails and the machined ports for the injectors
themselves. Now believe it or not, if your not into fuel
injection, this intake is also offered in a carbureted version and it doesn’t have the
bungs for the injectors or the stands for the fuel rails here and you can just mount
carburetors up on top of there, you’ll be good to go. But no matter what your application, this
is a great all-around intake here. Now to finish out the top side of the engine
here what we’ve got is a pair of fuel rails here, for the injectors, they just mount up
on the intake there. Here’s that 90 millimeter throttle body I
was telling you about. Now this thing is massive and I’ll show you
it later on after I get that old throttle body off, just how it compares. This thing will feed a substantial amount
of horsepower. And then we’ve got the Holley fuel pump here. Now this is an inline, it’s nice and quiet,
it doesn’t make that pulsing, pumping noise that a lot of them do. It’s a gear rotor design and it’s designed
to work in conjunction with our whole fuel system here and of course we’ve got the regulator
here that’s going to allow us to fine tune our pressure requirements tot he fuel injectors. That’s it, I guess our next step is to get
that old intake off of there. Well now, before we can bolt that Holley intake
up, we’ve got to do a little bit of prep work. Now if you’ll notice, right on the bottom
side of the mating flange here, there are some receiver groves, and in those groves,
we have to put these little O-rings that come in the kit with the intake manifold. Yeah now in order to hold these little O-rings
in place what we’re gonna do is just put a little dab of grease on them. About like that there, just regular, all purpose
grease will be just fine, just put enough on there to give it a light coating, that
ought to be enough, and then we’ll just press it into place right here and that grease ought
to hold the O-ring where it needs to be. Now we just re-do that same process for all
8 cylinders and we’re ready to go. Well alright, that takes care of all the O-rings
and they went on there pretty nicely, a little dab of grease holds them in place, and well
I guess we’re ready to throw this intake on the motor. Now this Holley intake is held in place with
10 M6 bolts as you can see it’s a fairly small bolt, which means they won’t take a lot of
abuse, you just don’t want to over torque these things. So what we’re going to do right now is just
hand start them, and then we’ll snug them down, and when we snug them down there’s even
a specific pattern that you wan to use. Start from the middle, go across, over here,
back across again, and basically you work your way from the inside out in a circling
pattern there, and we’ll just snug them down like that, and then we’ll get the torque wrench
out. Well now with this intake torqued down properly
we’re ready for the gaskets that go between the intake manifold and the base. Now just like before we’re just going to use
a little bit of grease, kind of hold these things in place, until we can get things cinched
down. There we go, a little bit more here. Well the base is next, got the gaskets in
place there, so we’ll just set this down. Now here’s something I want to bring to your
attention, you’ll notice right here on the back of the base. There’s some ports here, these are vacuum
ports that we’ll use later on, but one thing you want to make sure is that they’re at the
back of the engine. Again, we’ll just start these bolts, and we’ll
just snug them down. Now when you torque these down it’s basically
a specific pattern that Holley recommends. You start from the inside, then you go to
the outer corners. You get them torqued down, then that will
be good to go. Alright, well that base is ready to go, and
we’re almost ready for the lid but before we can do that there’s just a little more
prep work that we’ve got to do. Now Holley includes this length of O-ring
material here and as you can see, it’s kind of an open ended deal. The reason for that is there’s a receiver
group down here in the base and we just lay it down in there, and then we cut it to length,
and glue it, and then it’s ready to go. Now what we’ve done here is we’re using a
little bit of grease here just to hold this thing in place so we can get it to where the
2 ends mate up, and once we get it to that point, we’re going to go ahead and trim it
to the proper length and glue the 2 halves of the O-ring rope together. We’re sneaking up on it here. And we’ll just put a little glue in that joint
and we’ll be good to go. Now the Holley instructions say to glue the
ends of that O-ring gasket with some super glue, which we’ve already done, and we’ve
got it already back tot he receiver group. Now it tells you to finish up with a little
dab of some ATV just to make sure that you get a real good seal there. That’s what we’ll do, right on that spot right
there, that looks pretty good. And now, now we’re ready for that lid. Well, you know not everything goes the way
you plan it to sometimes and here’s something I want tot show you here. Now we put all of the lid bolts in except
this last one here, and as you can see, there’s some interference here between the boss that
mounts the fuel rail later on and the head of the bolt here. So what we’re gonna have to do is, we’re just
going to have to get the old trusty file out, dress that down a little bit there and give
us the clearance that we need. Well the injectors is the next thing that
we’re going to install and we have to rob them off the factory intake here, so in order
to do that we have to remove the fuel rails here, a couple of bolts hold them on, and
then we can pop the injectors out of there and then we’ll take that throttle body off
there as well. You know they say when all else fails you
ought to read the instructions and it’s amazing what you can learn when you actually do that. Now I went ahead and found a section here
that says the 300-121 intake fuel rail kit is designed to accept Bosch style EV1 or Peko
fuel injectors, we tried to use the OE ones that came off of that original Tahoe intake. It says here that the OE LS fuel injectors
may not fit properly in the EFI manifold and fuel rail assembly, so I guess I got to go
and pick up a set of new injectors. Well quick trip to the speed shop, I’ve got
what we need. These are some 30 pound high impedance injectors
form Holley, I’ll tell you what, I’m going to slip them in place, we ought to be good
to go. Well now let me show you what the difference
is in these 2 injectors here, just so you can get an idea of what the hight difference
is and what was causing us the problems. Obviously the Holley is going to be considerably
taller. Now there is a kit they say that allows you
to use the stock LS type injectors if that’s what your working with but it also requires
some drilling and some other modifications. For us, way easier to go ahead and secure
a set of the Holley injectors and use them instead. Much better. You know I was reading a little bit on those
30 pound injectors that I got from Holley there and well, it said that they’ll feed
up to 480 horsepower which ought to be more than enough for what we’ve got in mind, even
with a camshaft and a head change. I think we’ll be lucky to be pushing 500 horsepower
at that point, but here’s something that I wanted to show you. Now I took the old throttle body off of the
old LS engine there, this is it, this what comes on that intake manifold from GM and
here is the throttle body that we’re gonna replace it with. Now this is the one that’ll go on that mid-ram
intake there, and this is a 90 millimeter. Let me show you what the difference is going
to be. Now Stevie Wonder could tell the difference
between these 2 here, but this is pretty impressive right here, 90 millimeters and this will definitely
feed up to that 480 horsepower and if we need do, I think it will go beyond that, if we
need to we can go ahead and throw some bigger injectors in there to take care of the horsepower
requirement. We’re ready to slip this thing on but I did
want to remind you that this throttle body has to be ordered separately from the intake. Now this one is a 90 millimeter as I said
but I hear rumors that they’ve got a 105 in the works which ought to be available here
shortly. Now we’ll just stack the gasket on here, they
have the hardware in place, and we’ll just tighten it up. That ought to be tight enough. Well now we’re ready for our throttle position
sensor, and our IAC valve. Now you might recall that we got our 5.3 out
of an 03′ Tahoe which is a drive by wire set up. The throttle body that we got from Holley
however uses an actual throttle cable, so what we’re gonna have to do is find the IEC
valve and the throttle position sensor off of like a 2000-2001 Camaro or a Firebird with
an LS1 engine in it. Those parts should be readily available and
well since I’m going to have to make another run to the parts store, looks like right here
would be a good place to stop for today. You’ll want to check back with me soon though
because next time I’m going to show you how I’m going to rig up the rest of that fuel
system there, I’ll see yo soon. Tune in next time for part 3 as we continue
with our LS engine swap project car.

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