Ijaw Dictionary Online

How Automobiles Work


of course every engine build starts at
the cases somebody get these Co 250 cases ready to go back together by
popping out the old bearings as studs shining up the cases and cleaning up the
gasket surfaces the majority of these bearings can be removed by heating them
up and knocking them out from the opposite side however with a bearing
like this where there’s no access from the other side that will have to be
removed with a blind bearing polar and then a few of these bearings have
retainers holding them in a place so I’m gonna have to remove the screws and
bolts holding them on most of the time these bolts and screws are gonna be
locked headed so I’m not gonna even bother trying to get them out without
heating them up first now for the Phillips screws the head strip out
really easily so I’m not gonna take any chances with them just going to go
straight ahead and use the impact screwdriver
I’ll have this tool link down in the description I tell you what guys these
screwdrivers work without fail 100% of the time
super super handy to have all right I’ve got a few seals to pop out and then I’m
gonna heat up the bearings and knock them out of the case all right got a socket that fits just
inside the hole on the case here and I should be able to give it a whack and
the bearing will fall out I’m gonna go ahead and give the case some more heat
here and the reason why heat works in the situation is because the case is
aluminum the bearing is steel and aluminum expands at a quicker rate then
steel does and so why this works is when the case is heated up the bearing will
have more room to slide out I don’t know if you guys caught that or not but when
I flipped the case over this bearing just fell right out I really wanted to
show you guys that blind bearing polar but I might need to use it on this
needle bearing here so I’m gonna try the same thing on the needle bearing here
heat it up flip the case over and hopefully it falls out no such luck using that method so on to
the blind bearing polar it is hopefully I have one that’s big enough basically
how this polar works is as always tightening those two pieces against each
other it expanded down inside the bearing so I’ve got a firm grasp on the
bearing as soon as I thread in the slide hammer to the polar I’ll build the yank
that bearing right out pretty dang slick if you ask me works awesome on wheel
bearings linkage bearings case bearings you name it it’s got pretty much every
size you’d ever need I’ll link this tool down below as well the last thing to
pull off this case are the cylinder studs never hurts to go ahead and
replace those to remove them I’ll be using the double nut technique sounds
dirty but I promise it isn’t all those be walking to nuts against each other on
the stud and that will enable me to thread the stud out of the case now I’ve got this case completely bare
just gonna follow the same steps with the other case now for the inner clutch cover I’m just
got a few seals and a bearing to pull out all right the cases are completely
bare at this point and I’ve got my work area all cleaned up the next step is
gonna be shining these things up I’m gonna start out by putting the
scotch-brite wheel on the buffer and knock it out as much as I can with that
and then I’ll move on to the dremel tool and I’ve got a couple attachments here
some scotch-brite wheels and a few brass wire attachments as well I want you guys
to take a good look at the cases right now how dull and plain looking they are
in a few minutes I’ll have them looking so much better man this scotch-brite wheel is really
working some magic on the crank case however there’s still a lot of rock
chips and pitting on the bottom side so I’m gonna try the more aggressive scotch
brite wheel and see if I can smooth some of that out that is simply mind-blowing it’s like a
brand-new crankcase all over again I’m gonna pop the other scotch-brite wheel
back on and smooth this thing out even more alright that’s about as far as I can get
with the scotch brite wheel on the buffer now if only I can get the rest of
the crankcase looking this good I’d be stoked as you can see I can’t really do
much in these tighter areas with the scotch brite wheel on the buffer so I’m
gonna bust out the dremel tool with the brass wire cup and I’m really really
hoping I can get that same type of finish so the brass wire attachments bore down
pretty quickly so I’m going to give this Scott’s part wheel a try now the scotch-brite wheel seemed to work
okay just wore down super quickly so I’m pretty happy with how the brass
attachments worked but the only thing is they left like a brass color on the
finish so I’ve been trying the regular wire wheels here I got a straight one
and a cup as well and these seem to be the ticket for getting a similar finish
to what I got with the scotch-brite wheel and a buffer without the brass
color all right I’ve got the left case all
shined up and this is what it looks like compared to the right case pretty
dramatic difference so I use a combination of the wire and scotch-brite
wheels not really a big fan of these brass wheels they just left kind of a
brass look to it and the regular wire wheels seem to work a lot better keep in
mind if you’re gonna be using these scotch-brite wheels have a lot on hand
they wear out pretty quickly you guys enjoyed watching the videos I would
appreciate it if you go show some support head over to primum XCOM pick up
a t-shirt a hat stickers I also have the scotch-brite wheels shown in this video
over there as well without your support I wouldn’t be able to make helpful and
informative videos like this now it’s on to getting the right crankcase and inner
clutch cover look it’s sweet too and by the way I’ll have all the supplies used
throughout the video linked down in the description I am pretty happy with how these things
cleaned up now to touch up the gasket surfaces I’ll be using a sanding block
with 320 grit sandpaper just gonna go super light with the pressure don’t want
to take off too much material here like I said I’m gonna go really light with
the pressure and I’m gonna try to keep the sanding block moving around the case
don’t want to spend too much time focused on one spot since that will make
it uneven and then for something like the cylinder base gasket surface I’m
gonna bolt the cases together that way it’s easier to sand and I can get a nice
even finish on the whole surface these gasket surfaces should be plenty flushed
now last thing to do is the clean up all the junk from sanding and what was left
behind the bearings as well I always appreciate y’all taking the
time to watch through the video and don’t forget all the supplies used
throughout the video are linked down below I will see you guys later

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *